ASSESSORATO AL TURISMO
COMUNE DI BOLOGNA

THE PORTICOES


We have already reconstructed the nucleus of the city. Not all of it is there - even puzzles are at times imperfect. But it's a start.
And now, following the original map, let's explore one of the most famous features of the city (which we have already encountered here and there): the porticoes, a severe, romantic, inviting and intriguing parade almost forty kilometres long.
As in the case of the city's history, one starts from the architectural details and ends up evaluating their human aspects. But let's sketch out, even if a little haphazardly, the general outline.
The Pavaglione, a portico run approximately one hundred metres in length, is the city's most famous promenade. Flanking San Petronio, it borders Piazza Maggiore, Via dell'Archiginnasio, Piazza Galvani, Via Clavature, Via Orefici. With its elegant shops and large gothic windows, it is the urban strolling ground the Bolognesi love most.
Back to Piazza Maggiore, from the one end we call walk along the equally elegant portico of Via Rizzoli or, at the other end, we can cross the world-famous Piazza Nettuno with the god's statue and walk down the long, straight Via dell'lndipendenza, towards the railway station. Along the way we discover the charming Majani building (right opposite, the simple and distinctive Via Altabella and the massive metropolitan Church of San Pietro), the prestigious Baglioni Hotel, the aristocratic Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava (at the corner of Via Manzoni) and a gastronomic institution the Ristorante Diana.
Before we reach the railway station (having filled in the few pieces that define Via Galliera, running parallel to Via dell'Indipendenza), we come to the end of the portico and to the Montagnola hillock and park, one of the most photographed tourist attractions.
Branching off from Via dell'Indipendenza, is Via Ugo Bassi, with its beautiful portico that ends in the vicinity of the enchanting Piazza Malpighi, the piazza and the Church of San Francesco, and the ancient portico of Via Nosadella.
After the porticoes we have already encountered along Strada Maggiore, Via Zamboni, Via San Vitale and Via Castiglione, those that line Via Saragozza deserve a special mention.
A long, undulating, fascinating parade of porticoes leads from the centre (practically from Via Collegio di Spagna), out of Porta Saragozza and ends at the Arco del Meloncello. From this point, another 3,500 metres of portico climb the Colle della Guardia to the foot of the Sanctuary of the Beata Vergine di San Luca, the patroness of the city.
Another street we have already encountered, but which is worth quoting again for its porticoes, is Via Santo Stefano. Heading towards the centre, we meet the Piazzetta of San Giovanni in Monte, the restful Piazza Minghetti, the central Piazza Cavour.
Walking back towards Porta Santo Stefano, the complex of columns, arches and capitals induces a sort of awe and, despite the noisy traffic, evokes an almost religious silence. We perceive the "slow" and methodical modulation that from the Church of San Giuliano reaches the high arch which frames the view of the Church of the Madonna del Baraccano.
Close your eyes for an instant and imagine you are travelling back in time: this is the right place to do it.





  Previous page