ASSESSORATO AL TURISMO
COMUNE DI BOLOGNA

CHURCHES AND PALAZZI

It takes patience and care. We start again from the two Towers and, nearby, we see the dazzling Piazza della Mercanzia slowly taking shape with its flowery gothic jowel, the Loggia del Carrobbio. Here, we note that some of the main city roads form a crossroad. One of these in Via Santo Stefano, leading to the Piazza by the same name. The architectonic complex, know as the Chiesa delle Sette Chiese [Church of the Seven Churches] unfolds its monumental romanesque style and the heady beauty of its columns in cipolin marble.

Another road that leads off from this intersection is Via Castiglione, a winding run of porticoes along an unusual road which was once the bed of a canal, whose banks stood where the porticoes are now. All of a sudden, set like a gem among other buildings, is what was once the Church of Santa Lucia (sixteenth century), now the University's main assembly hall, the Aula Magna. If we continue down the road and complete the picture, we come across the Torresotto, barring the way ahead of us with undoubted emotional impact.

But now, let's retrace our steps, back towards the Two Towers. We start searching for the fragments that will show us Strada Maggiore, a road that both historical and artistic, elegant and popular at the same time... Almost immediately, we come across the ten sturdy arches of the portico of the Basilica of the Santi Bartolomeo and Gaetano.

The pieces of the puzzle form a picture that, like a visual symphony, rises and subsides, comes together and disappears, and the mere description of what the puzzle reveals is not enough to do it justice: Palazzo Lupari, with the remains of the Roman paving, at numbers 15 and 17, Casa Sorgi, the first brick house in a medieval Bononia of family houses completely built in wood; at number 19, Casa Isolani and its ancient portico supported by nine-metre oak columns and known as the "portico of the three arrows", mysteriously driven into the ceiling, for reasons that remain unknown, possibly as a prank, an exploit attributable to the undying goliardic spirit of the city students. Here is the house of Gioacchino Rossini, whose parties were renowned all over Europe. To the side, the Piazzetta di San Michele, and the warm "Bologna red" of the church which is popularly known as San Michelino.

Farther on, Palazzo Sanguineti, with its trompe l'oeil portico and the authentic flower bed: deception and authenticity in an unmatchable urban theatre scene. Then, the Torre degli Oseletti, towering over the rooves, and the stone mirage of the thirteenth century Church of Santa Maria dei Servi, with the almost embarrassing lightness of its thin marble columns. Inside the church, among the paintings and frescoes, touching organ recitals of Bach's symphonies are performed. Outside, at Christmas, the traditional Festival of Santa Lucia takes place. And finally, quiet and mysterious, is via Fondazza, the street where Giorgio Morandi lived, unknown and reserved, painting and etching his "immortal" landscapes and still lives.

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